Jaffna has plenty of unique things to see and do to keep travelers busy during their time in northern Sri Lanka! From spicy local food to colorful Hindu temples, Jaffna is a off-the-beaten path destination not to be missed.

After multiple months spent traveling across Sri Lanka, there is one thing I can say with certainty: Jaffna is unlike the rest of the country. Jaffna's cultural composition differs entirely from southern Sri Lanka, from the granular details (like spicier food) to its more obvious distinctions (like its majority language and religion).

Those differences were once the cause of much destruction. For nearly 30 years, the country’s civil war ravaged Jaffna. It’s estimated that more than 100,000 people were killed during the violent conflict, and though much of the city has rebuilt since the war ended in 2009, for many the emotional scars remain.

Jaffna only opened to visitors in 2010, which means it hasn’t become a hotspot for tourists yet. It’s managed to retain its raw, authentic identity. And, there is no shortage of things to do or see in Jaffna, which makes it the perfect off-the-beaten-path destination for your Sri Lanka itinerary.

the best time to visit Jaffna ↴

I visited Jaffna in September and the heat was stifling, nearing 100 almost every day that we were there. The best time to visit is between January and March. The temperatures during these months are much more pleasant and rain is less likely.

October through December is technically Jaffna’s monsoon season when frequent downpours are common and the weather can be unpredictable. While it’s not a totally terrible idea to visit during these months, you’ll want to be flexible with your travel plans, making adjustments for inclement weather. In all honesty, the rain often cools the temperature, so it’s not totally miserable.

how long to spend in Jaffna ↴

I would recommend spending 2-3 days in Jaffna, which allows you to explore and take a few half-day trips to nearby islands. Jaffna is a beautiful, unique travel destination worth visiting. Still, if your time is limited in Sri Lanka, I recommend focusing your travel itinerary on the central and southern regions of the country. Jaffna is a great addition to a lengthy itinerary for slow travelers or those looking for a more “off-the-beaten-path” Sri Lanka destination.

how to get to Jaffna ↴

Sri Lanka is fantastic in terms of connectivity. Jaffna is accessible by road and rail, though it is a trek to get there— we’re talking 4-8 hours depending on where you’re coming from within the country.

from Colombo | Take the train from Colombo Fort to Jaffna, which departs five times daily. The train tickets from Colombo to Jaffna tend to sell out, so I suggest buying them in advance. This is a 7-8 hour journey. Alternatively, I recommend traveling from Colombo to Anuradhapura and spending a night in the ancient city before traveling onward to Jaffna via train. This massively helps break up the journey, with the added bonus of allowing you the time to explore Anuradhapura. It took roughly 3.5 hours on the express train.

from Dambulla/Sigiriya | The local bus from Dambulla to Jaffna takes roughly 7 hours. This is a great budget option, as it only costs LKR 170 per person.

Once in Jaffna, you can hire a tuk-tuk or rent bicycles for short trips around town.

travel tips + safety considerations for Jaffna ↴

Safety | Jaffna has a reputation for being “unsafe”, which is likely rooted in its civil war history. However, whether wandering around on a group tour or exploring on our own, neither Luke nor I ever felt uncomfortable in Jaffna.
Language | Tamil is the primary language spoken in Jaffna, but most locals also speak Sinhala and English, especially in tourist areas.
Dress Modestly | Jaffna is a religious area. It’s also more conservative than the rest of the country, so it’s essential to dress modestly, especially when visiting temples. I wore loose linen trousers and tops that covered my shoulders. I also recommend bringing a scarf for temple visits.
Currency | Sri Lankan Rupees (LKR) is the currency used. Most small shops, particularly on the islands, are cash only. You can withdraw cash from the ATMs available in Jaffna’s city center.

best things to do in Jaffna ↴

Keerimalai

Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil dates back thousands of years. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it sits next to an unassuming pond, famed for its healing powers. You can technically swim in the water and benefit from its healing powers, however, I would caution against it as it looks quite polluted.

Nallur Kandaswamy Hindu Temple

Nallur Kandaswamy Temple is one of the most iconic landmarks in Jaffna, and for good reason. The temple is dedicated to Skanda/Lord Murugan, the Hindu god of love, war, and beauty— what a combination. Originally constructed in 948, Nallur Kandaswamy remains an important spiritual landmark. The temple grounds are, in a word, remarkable. It’s an immersive and overstimulating cultural experience that simply cannot be missed.

You may enter the temple but must be dressed with your shoulders and knees covered. Shoes must be removed before entering, and men must remove their shirts. If you can, I recommend timing your visit to Nallur Kandaswamy in August to coincide with the month-long Nallur festival.

Admission | free

indulge at Rio’s Ice Cream

I usually don’t include places to eat in my lists of things to do, but Rio’s deserves a particular mention. I had a vanilla sundae topped with nuts and chocolate shell. Luke opted for a chocolate sundae but inhaled it so quickly that he ordered a second, this time opting for mango ice cream.

cycle tour of the city

Luke and I explored ancient Anuradhapura by bicycle, and it changed the game for me. Walking tours? Yeah, they’re great. But cycling around a city ups the excitement level. It allows you the flexibility of walking but speeds up the explorations. The Jaffna Cycling Tour is locally run and covers 10 miles. While the tour is a relatively steep USD $45, it includes all the essentials:

Unlimited water + snacks
Helmet + bike
English-speaking local expert
Support truck, in case you need a rest
First aid kit

Book now | Jaffna Cycling Tour

Jaffna Fort

Built by the Portuguese in 1618 and later fortified by the Dutch, Jaffna Fort offers tourist-free explorations. During the 1600s, the fort was considered one of the greatest forts in Asia. It’s a great spot for sunset views, particularly of Jaffna Lagoon, though, admittedly, it isn’t as visually spectacular as Galle Fort in southern Sri Lanka.

Admission | free

Delft Island (+ others)

If you’re looking to get totally off the beaten track, visit Jaffna’s outlying islands. Though a bit of a trek to reach, I highly recommend making the journey to Delft Island for a day trip. The island is named after a city in The Netherlands, a nod to the Dutch colonial era. Delft’s dusty roads and wild horses quickly won me over, and it remains one of my favorite things we did during our time in Jaffna.

Pigeon Nest | Dutch colonizers used messenger pigeons for communication, and you can visit the
Dutch Stables | Similar to the pigeon nest, you can see the dilapidated horse stables left by the Dutch.
Fort | While not overly aesthetic, Delft Island’s fort was originally built by the Portuguese and later used by the Dutch.
Baobab trees | Though native to the African continent, Arab merchants left behind baobab trees that still grow on Delft Island.

The ferry ride to Delft is an adventure in itself. It’s a 1-hour boat ride and the water can often be choppy, so come prepared for light sea sickness. Don’t forget to pack snacks, water, and sunscreen, as amenities on the island are limited.

Casuarina Beach

Jaffna’s coastline is highly underrated, especially considering how uncrowded they are compared to the country’s southern coastline. I recommend spending a day at Casuarina Beach on Karainagar Island. It’s one of the cleanest beaches in Jaffna, which unfortunately suffers from plastic pollution. The water here is perfect for a swim thanks to its calm, shallow waters.

Jaffna Public Library

The Jaffna Public Library may be the city’s most iconic landmark. It was once the largest library in Asia, housing an estimated 97,000 original manuscripts. In 1981, however, radicals destroyed the library, burning the literary works that were housed inside. Since then, it has been rebuilt, but the original writings that have been lost can never be recovered— a reminder of the ripple effects of war. Today, it symbolizes how Jaffna has overcome its tragic history.

You can visit the library but, for obvious reasons, it’s a sensitive place. Photography is prohibited inside, and you will be asked to remove your shoes before entering. It’s worth noting that this is an active place for learning, so it’s closed to the public during exams. Ask at the front desk if you can visit and, as always, please be respectful.

Admission | free to enter

Jaffna Clock Tower

Not far from the Jaffna Public Library is one of the only other colonial buildings in the city: the Jaffna Clock Tower. The clock tower was built in 1875 to commemorate a royal visit by Albert Edward, Prince of Wales. The original tower was damaged during the civil war, so, in 1998, when King Charles of England visited Sri Lanka, he offered British financial assistance to restore it. The renovations were completed in 2002, and now the clock tower is an iconic landmark of Jaffna.

Nagadeepa Island

Nagadeepa Island is worth the boat journey. The island is home to Nagadeepa Purana Vihara, an important Buddhist temple believed to be one of the places visited by Buddha.

The island is also home to Nagapooshani Amman Temple, a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Parvati. If you plan on wandering the temple grounds, please remember to remove your shoes and cover your knees and shoulders. Men have to remove their shirts to enter the temple. Photography is prohibited inside without permission.

Admission | free

where to Eat in Jaffna ↴

As I’ve already mentioned, Jaffna’s cuisine differs from the rest of Sri Lanka thanks to unique Tamil influencers and is not dissimilar from southern India.

Mangos | Mangos is a popular vegetarian restaurant located near the Nallur Temple. It’s a great place to try Tamil cuisine. I recommend trying the dosa, idiyappam (string hoppers), and Jaffna-style curries.
Malayan Cafe| Malayan Cafe is a local favorite, known for its communal tables that give you an authentic dining experience. If you eat meat or seafood, do not miss their fiery Jaffna crab curry! Multiple travelers we met said it was the “food highlight” of their time in Jaffna.
Rio Ice Cream | Did you even visit Jaffna if you didn’t go to Rio Ice Cream? Located next to a market, this iconic spot serves unique ice cream flavors like mango, coconut, and pineapple. Their signature, however, is their tutti-frutti ice cream. The sundaes here are giant and are wildly affordable.
Akshathai | Akshathai serves traditional dishes, including Jaffna delicacies like mutton and crab curries. The food is exceptionally flavorful but very spicy, so be prepared.

where to stay in Jaffna ↴

Jaffna has plenty of hotels to book, but it is worth remembering that the city only opened to tourism in 2010. Accommodation up north is a touch more expensive, making it harder for budget-travelers to find traditional hostel dorms. You’ll find primarily hotels and guesthouses in Jaffna.

The Thinnai | Luke and I stayed at the Thinnai during our time in Jaffna, and we rate it highly! The service was impeccable, as was the food at the on-site restaurant (no stale buffet food here). Our villas had a lounge area, perfect for longer stays. The outdoor pool was our haven in the middle of the day when the heat reached a fever pitch.

Thambu Illam | A restored heritage home with four clean, comfortable rooms centered around a courtyard and an outdoor pool.

Fox Jaffna | The Fox’s big, airy rooms are in a quiet location, though only 3 miles from Jaffna’s major landmarks.

Jetwing Jaffna | A sophisticated stay with rooftop views that are a treat.

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