Train Kandy to Ella, Sri Lanka: 2024 Ultimate Guide + How to Book Tickets
Regarded as one of the most scenic journeys in the world, the train ride from Kandy to Ella through the tea fields of Sri Lanka is a bucket list item you simply cannot miss out on. This article outlines everything you need to know, including how to book a ticket, which seats are best, and hacks for a less crowded ride.
If there is one thing you have to do in Sri Lanka, it’s take the train from Kandy to Ella. That’s why I’ve penned this comprehensive guide as your ultimate resource for the train journey, complete with information about tickets, timetables, photo tips, and how to map out your train travel itinerary. Because the 7-hour ride through lush tea plantations, past cascading waterfalls and misty hills, is a bucket list experience that everyone visiting this island oasis should have.
I remember my first time boarding the famous blue train. Crammed into a busy carriage, filled with locals selling wade (fried dhal balls) from woven baskets and softly pushing past one another in the thick Sri Lankan heat, I couldn’t help but smile. I stood for the first hour, waiting for a seat to empty while I balanced my bag on my sweaty thigh I propped up on top of Luke’s backpack. Eventually, I dropped my bag and nabbed a spot sitting on the edge of the train’s metal doorway. I grabbed onto the metal handrails tightly and leaned out of the train car. The wind tossed my hair around wildly, as if playing with it and I didn’t mind. This is travel to me: the privilege of participating in moments like this, that would be otherwise deemed ordinary by locals.
The train journey from Kandy to Ella is considered one of the most stunning train rides in the world. And having done it, I can’t argue. As the rickety carriages wind through the central highlands, covering over 114 kilometers, I promise you will fall helplessly in love with Sri Lanka. It is a place that takes root in every adventurer’s heart, and the train ride from Kandy to Ella fully awakens the senses.
I’ve created this guide filled with all the information I gathered over time in Sri Lanka so that you know what to expect, how to book the best seat in the house, information about the train timetables, and how to have the best overall experience. So sit back, take notes, and get ready to experience the mesmerizing beauty of Sri Lanka by train! It’s one travel experience you’ll want to relive over and over again.
what to expect on the Kandy to Ella train ride ↴
The railway system was introduced in Sri Lanka by the British in 1864. Originally, it was built to bring tea to Colombo, the capital city, for export from where it is grown inland. The Sri Lankan trains were powered by steam until the 1950s when they switched to diesel fuel. Today, the famous train ride from Kandy to Ella is one of the most affordable ways to navigate Sri Lanka, taking approximately 7-8 hours (if there are no delays) to conveniently pass through towns and attractions travelers frequent including Nuwara Eliya, Ella, Haputale, and even Nine Arches Bridge.
The train itself is a loud metal box that comes screeching in and out of every station on its route. Inside, there’s no official etiquette for baggage, so luggage is tossed into piles sat on by those who aren’t lucky enough to have made it onto a bench. Trains headed in opposite directions sometimes pass by one another so closely you could lean out and touch the other bright blue carriages (don’t do this, please). You’ll find vendors selling snacks and occasionally a young man selling water bottles, all shouting their prices over the sound of the wind whipping past and the locomotive inching its way to its next stop.
You’ll eventually arrive in Ella a little dirty, very sweaty, but completely invigorated having witnessed the beauty of Sri Lanka and observed such remarkable scenes from everyday life in this paradise country.
how to book tickets for the Kandy to Ella train ↴
The first step in planning your train journey from Kandy to Ella is to book your train tickets. But, in order to do that, you have to untangle the confusing options available. Should you purchase unreserved or reserved tickets? What’s the difference between first and third class? I’ll detail all the train ticket options available and their associated costs below so that you can make the very best ticket purchase for your journey.
reserved tickets
BOOKING TICKETS IN ADVANCE
The easiest way to get your hands on train tickets is also, unsurprisingly, the most expensive. You can purchase tickets up to 30 days in advance online using 12goAsia. If you opt to purchase tickets this way, you have to have a Sri Lankan SIM card, which is the tricky part. To get around this, many people pay a Sri Lankan travel agency to book their tickets for them. These tickets are overpriced, but you are guaranteed a reserved seat which we’ll get to later in this post. The downside to buying in advance, besides paying more, is that you have a less flexible itinerary. You must book reserved tickets ahead of time— they cannot be purchased on the day of intended travel.
unreserved tickets
BUYING TICKETS AT THE TRAIN STATION
If you want to save yourself a lot of money, you can simply line up with all the other train travelers and purchase a ticket on the day of travel. Technically, sales for tickets aren’t supposed to start until an hour before your departure, but this rule is super lax and many tellers will sell you them without bother. Show up and book your ticket at the counter, it’s as easy as that. Unreserved tickets do not sell out as there are no unreserved ticket limits. If you’re told by someone at the ticket counter that there are no tickets available, it’s likely the seller assumes you want a reserved ticket since you’re a foreigner. Make sure to reiterate that you would like an unreserved ticket. Unreserved tickets are great if you have a flexible itinerary, are traveling in the off-peak season, or if you prefer a spontaneous approach to your travels.
Third Class - unreserved
300 lkr | ~$1 usd
This is my ultimate recommendation for seating on the Kandy to Ella train! Third-class seats are the cheapest you’ll find, and because of this, it’s the most popular choice for locals. The seating is unallocated, so the wooden benches in this carriage class are completely first-come-first-serve. Because so many people ride the third-class carriages you’ll likely be standing for at least a portion of the journey. My train experiences showed that few-to-zero foreigners ride in third class. The locals are super hospitable and smiled every time we made our way to the benches at the back of the train. The windows and doors are open in third class and there are rickety fans attached to the carriage ceiling that rotate the sticky air around. The doorways in third class are less crowded, so you can head back this way if you are looking for a better photo opportunity.
Third Class - reserved
The same as above, except the seating is allocated. It tends to be less noisy and less crowded, but a bit more organized and a tad less chaotic.
Second Class - unreserved
600 lkr | ~$2 usd
The individual seats in second-class are cushioned, making them slightly more comfortable than the bench seating in third class. The seats in this class also face forward. The price difference between second and third class is minimal, so I’m not sure you should factor this into your decision-making unless you are on a budget so strict the USD $1 makes a difference. Second-class seating is optimal for shoulder-season travelers.
Second Class - reserved
Again, this seating is the same as above with allocated seating being the distinction. These seats are particularly popular and tend to sell out up to 2 months in advance during the busiest tourist season. You will absolutely need to book these tickets in advance and plan your itinerary accordingly.
First Class
3,000 lkr | ~$10 usd
The main perk of first-class tickets is the air conditioning. Because there is air-con, the windows and doors remain locked. If you opt for the comfort of first-class, you’ll likely be hanging out with only foreigners and travelers on group tours. Even if I had wanted to splurge on a first-class ticket, I wouldn’t have bought one, because the first-class carriage feels like less of a true Sri Lankan train experience. The second and third-class tickets are extremely affordable and the ride feels like you’re truly in Sri Lanka. However, first-class tickets are a great option for luxury travelers looking for extra comfort or trying to meet other foreign travelers.
Timetable information | Sri Lankan Railways website
Kandy to Ella train train itinerary ↴
Now that you know how to book tickets and what to expect, you’ll need to plan your train journey itinerary. The train journey isn’t just beautiful, it’s also an affordable way to see many key traveler hubs and some of the best sights in Sri Lanka. The journey takes 7-8 hours, as long as there are no delays. You can always ride the train in reverse (from Ella to Kandy) depending on your itinerary and intended route of travel.
Peradeniya Junction | If you are worried about getting a seat on the train, I would highly recommend taking a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride to Peradeniya Junction and boarding the train from there. This station is far less busy than Kandy Station, so you may have better luck getting nabbing a seat.
Kandy | The Kandy Railway Station is located in the center of Kandy city. We walked from our hotel to the railway station, and even with the lack of sidewalk infrastructure, we found it a breeze. If you aren’t a fan of navigating your way on foot, I suggest taking a tuk-tuk or a taxi to the station. The train station is marked with wooden signage and Victorian architecture, a colonial legacy. You’ll find toilets and snack stalls inside the station.
Nuwara Eliya | I highly recommend breaking up the train journey with a stop in Nuwara Eliya. We loved our time in the highland tea fields, sipping on cuppas and enjoying the cooler temperatures. It also meant that when we boarded our train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella, there were fewer people to contend with when boarding. You will almost definitely need to take a tuk-tuk or a taxi to and from the train station, as it’s located a little further outside the main town.
Ella | Similarly to Kandy’s railway station, the Ella train station is located in the center of the town near Ella’s main street. You can easily walk to the station thanks to Ella town being reasonably small, however, you can also take a tuk-tuk. You’ll find food vendors nearby and a counter for purchasing unreserved tickets.
tips for the train from Kandy to Ella ↴
board from the Peradeniya Junction
I boarded the train from the station in Kandy city center. Getting a seat was fairly easy, however, I read only a little later that the easiest way to improve your odds for a seat is to board at Peradeniya Junction. While it isn’t impossible to get a seat at the Kandy Station {we managed to snag one not too far into our trip to Nuwara Eliya}, this tip could have come in handy. Learn from my mistake and do better research, guys! You can catch the train at Peradeniya Junction by grabbing a tuk-tuk. It’s said to be approximately a 10-minute ride.
ask to know where each class stops
If you want to be prepared for boarding, ask the train staff or one of the locals where the cars of your ticket class stop. That way, you can be waiting in the right approximate area when the train arrives.
prepare for pushing
Sri Lankan people are some of the most kind and friendly people I’ve come across in my many travels. However, when it comes to boarding trains there isn’t a single elbow kept in place. Pushing and shoving chaotically into the train carriage is just the way it’s done. No one means any malice, but the first few minutes spent getting on the train are probably the most stressful of the entire journey. Be quick, hold your ground, and know that no one means any harm.
break up the journey
One of the best decisions I made was to break up the 7-8 hour journey from Kandy to Ella with a stopover in the highest town in Sri Lanka, Nuwara Eliya. The tea fields and cooler temperatures were a lovely way to see more of the country.
blue + red trains are different
Blue trains are express trains. There are also red trains that are used for mail and goods. The red trains are much slower than the blue trains. Ultimately, both trains get you where you need to go, but the blue trains will get you there faster (if by fast you mean 7-8 hours).
toilets onboard
The toilets on the trains are squat toilets, which aren’t ideal for a rickety train ride. A toilet is better than no toilet when you really need one, however, so make sure you have toilet paper and hand sanitizer on hand just in case. They aren’t fancy, so it’s an in-and-out kind of situation.
ride over Nine Arch Bridge via Demodara
You’ve undoubtedly seen photos of Sri Lanka’s stunning Nine Arch Bridge. As previously mentioned, the train from Kandy to Ells goes over the famous bridge. If you are hoping to ride over the bridge, book a ticket to Demodara. You can visit the famous Nine Arches Bridge once you’ve arrived in Ella with just a small hike or by tuk-tuk.
bring lots of water + snacks
The train ride is super hot, even early in the morning. I wish we would have brought more water than we initially did, as the ride got hotter as the day passed. Try to eliminate your plastic consumption by bringing your own refillable water bottle and filling it up at your accommodation before you head to the station. There will be snacks for sale throughout the journey, but if you have a delicate stomach you may want to bring your own snacks to tide you over.
tips for taking photos on the Kandy to Ella train ride ↴
The train ride from Kandy to Ella will have your hand glued to your shutter button. While I highly recommend being fully present on the train journey, you’ll also want to document the spectacular scenery on camera. Here are some tips to help take fantastic photos throughout your Kandy to Ella train ride.
trains are full
First thing first, a little transparency. The trains in Sri Lanka, particularly the blue express trains from Kandy to Ella are chalked full of people. The cool picture you see of people standing carelessly out the train door or gazing deep in thought out of the window? They are either taken with careful timing or a lot of patience. The train car doorways are golden photo spots, and so, on almost every train journey I took during my time in Sri Lanka, people were hunkered down to take pictures. The doors were constantly overcrowded with people, as were the aisles. It makes for a fun and exciting experience, but it also makes it hard to snap the “perfect” picture. Adjust your expectations accordingly.
be mindful of other passengers
I took many train rides throughout our time in Sri Lanka and saw plenty of tourists who were stressing about “getting their shot” in the door frame or out the windows of the train. It wasn’t fun to hear them snapping at their partners, asking locals to switch their seats so they could take a picture from the window, or hogging the doorways for ages while others waited. Luckily, I also saw people who shared the spots everyone's eyes equally. These people took turns taking photos of one another and seemed to be having a good time! Be mindful that everyone wants to capture moments from the train ride.
sit on the right side
Valleys, cliffs, and tea fields can all be seen better from a specific side depending on your direction of travel. Those coming from Kandy to Ella should sit on the right side of the train for the best views of the stunning Sri Lankan landscape. If you are traveling from Ella to Kandy, sitting on the left side becomes the scenic side.
