Oaxaca is widely regarded as one of the culinary and cultural capitals of Mexico. These 4 or 5-day itineraries include all the vital information for planning a trip to Oaxaca, including the best time to visit the city.

It’s not overstating to say I’m obsessed with México, most especially Oaxaca. After spending a week wandering the uneven roads of Oaxaca (at Christmas time no less), I’ve curated the ideal 4-5 day itinerary options for the food and art-obsessed.

The UNESCO-listed colonial city is home to a tradition of food and art so rich, that even the most oblivious of travelers would be hard-pressed to ignore it. Oaxaca’s streets are swathed in colorful murals; its laneways, a maze of culinary delights. And all of it reflects the area’s diverse Indigenous histories and cultures.

What’s obvious about Oaxaca is its attempt to strike a balance between the gentrification brought by an increasing number of direct flights from the US and maintaining its cultural identity without commodifying it. The result is a design-led destination for luxury and budget travelers alike, filled with aesthetic specialty coffee shops, boutique hotels, and copious amounts of street food.

Where is Oaxaca ↴

Oaxaca de Juárez (Oaxaca City) is situated approximately 280 miles southeast of Mexico City in the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca, which can get confusing. For the sake of this blog post, I use Oaxaca and Oaxaca City interchangeably.

Best time to visit Oaxaca ↴

The best time to visit Oaxaca, Mexico, is generally during the dry season (October to early May). During the dry season, the weather is usually warm, but not unbearable. This is also a great time to visit as several cultural festivals occur.

I recommend avoiding the wet season (June to September). The heavy rainfall during these months may hinder your plans, particularly outdoor excursions. Some attractions might also be closed if there is inclement weather.

Guelaguetza (Los Lunes del Cerro/Mondays on the Hill) | This festival showcases regional dance and music pre-dating Hispanic colonization. The festival’s main event is the parade in the Plaza de Santo Domingo, where people wear traditional costumes that have been passed down for generations and promenade through the town.

Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) | Easily the most famous festival celebrated in Oaxaca, Dia de los Muertos is held in late October/early November. Contrary to popular belief, Dia de los Muertos is not the same as “Halloween.”
Christmas | Festivities surrounding Christmas begin on December 22nd in Oaxaca. However, if you arrive earlier, you’ll see the hanging of twinkly lights and giant Christmas trees being constructed in every plaza. Don’t miss the Night of the Radishes on December 23rd! This is arguably the most exciting night of the Christmas week. People from all over the Oaxacan state showcase elaborate scenes and sculptures created entirely from radishes.

Is Oaxaca worth visiting ↴

México is a massive country with endless things to see and do. So, you might be wondering if Oaxaca is worth visiting. The answer would be a resounding “yes.” Home to an estimated 4 million people, the Oaxacan state is renowned for its rich food tradition, Indigenous identities, and vibrant culture. So, it follows suit that Oaxaca City is a hub for all things art and eating. Travelers looking for an immersive cultural experience, need look no further.

How long to spend in Oaxaca ↴

Oaxaca City is filled with enough art galleries, food markets, museums, and concept stores to keep you busy for weeks. Beyond the city, there are several day trips to nearby landmarks that are “must-sees.” In short, you could easily spend a week in Oaxaca without running out of things to do. 4-5 days in Oaxaca is enough time to book day trips, feast on local food, and visit most museums. However, four days is the absolute minimum I would spend in Oaxaca, as there is a wealth of things to see and do.

How to get to Oaxaca ↴

The main gateway to Oaxaca is the Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX), located about 7 kilometers south of Oaxaca City. Numerous domestic flights connect Oaxaca with Mexico City, Guadalajara, and other major Méxican cities. International flights mainly connect through Mexico City.

Oaxaca is served by an extensive bus network, including ADO, its primary bus company. ADO offers comfortable and reliable services from various Mexican cities, but the journeys can take up a chunk of your time. For instance, the bus ride from Mexico City to Oaxaca can take 6-7 hours.

How to get around Oaxaca ↴

I say this a lot, but I truly mean it when I say that Oaxaca City is best explored on foot. The historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is compact and walkable.

Taxis are plentiful and affordable for those who’d rather not walk in the heat. Be sure to agree on a fare before you get in a cab since meters are not commonly used. Solo travelers may opt for sitio taxis (radio-dispatched cabs), usually arranged through your hotel or a taxi stand. Shared taxis or "colectivos" are a cost-effective way to travel short distances. Though a bit crowded and thus less comfortable than a cab, colectivos are undoubtedly the local way to get around.

“Camionetas” (local buses) are very affordable, though I wouldn’t recommend using them unless you speak conversational Spanish. Navigating the buses can be confusing due to constantly changing routes and no clear timetables.

Renting a car allows travelers the ultimate freedom to explore nearby destinations, like the day trips mentioned in this itinerary. However, if you aren’t planning to venture out of the city, there’s no reason to hire a car. Tour operators throughout Oaxaca sell guided day trips to popular destinations like Monte Albán, Hierve el Agua, and the artisanal villages of Teotitlán del Valle and San Bartolo Coyotepec. These tours usually include transportation, making them a hassle-free option.

Where to stay in Oaxaca ↴

Oaxaca is a relatively compact city, with most major city attractions within walking distance of one another. This means you can book a hotel and almost guarantee it’s suitable for sightseeing. However, something that should be considered is the city’s noise. Oaxaca is lively, with plenty of dancing and dive bars throughout its lanes. Read guest reviews, and stay in rooms that don’t face the streets. Many hotels have courtyards where rooms face inward.

With all that said, here are my recommendations for where to stay in Oaxaca:

Flavia Hotel | A unique blend of modern, minimalist architecture and Oaxacan decorative details.
Hotel Escondido Oaxaca | Warm, contemporary rooms highlighting Oaxaca’s natural elements.
Pug Seal Hotel | A boutique hotel featuring lush gardens and unique Méxican design details.
Otro Oaxaca | Located in central Oaxaca, this stunning space sits across from the Santo Domingo Church.
Selina Hostel | A quirky chain of social hostels with co-working spaces offering shared and private rooms.

We love using Booking.com to book the best places to stay around the world.

Where to eat in Oaxaca ↴

Méxican cuisine is so spectacular, that it’s UNESCO-listed due to the ancestral culinary techniques, traditional customs, and ritual practices. I can think of no place in the country more at the crossroads of culture and cuisine than Oaxaca. The city has somehow managed to take staple ingredients, like corn or chocolate, and magically transform it into a euphoric eating experience.

There is no shortage of delicious dining, but here are some of my favorites to put on your radar:

Los Danzantes | High-end dining in the city center
Ancestral | Ancestral offers a taste of ancient Indigenous Oaxacan cuisine cooked using traditional methodologies.
Tacos del Carmen
Hierba Dulce | Plant-based versions of traditional Oaxacan dishes
Memelas Doña Vale | A puesto inside Mercado del Abastos.
Fonda Rosita | Delicious chilaquiles verdes!

Oaxaca itinerary ↴

day 1: breakfast at Memelas Doña Vale, Andador Turistico, zocalo, Santo Domingo Church, the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca (MACO), dinner at Las Tlayudas de Mina y Bustamante or Hierba Dulce

Your first day in Oaxaca is jam-packed. It begins with a delicious local breakfast inside the labyrinth of Mercado del Abastos. Memelas Doña Vale gained global notoriety after being featured on Netflix’s Street Food Latin America series, but it’s been a favorite amongst locals for much longer. Doña Vale does one thing to perfection, and it’s the only thing on the menu at her puesto (food stall): memelas. When you’ve reached the front of the line, choose between salsa morita (her signature) and salsa roja, pick a protein, and add an egg if you like. Then, sit down and wait patiently while she serves your breakfast, cooked fresh to order. Wash it all down with a chocolate oaxaqueño (hot chocolate) or a hot coffee.

The meal, paired with its market atmosphere, is a symphony for the senses. Luke and I loved it so much, that we went back multiple times throughout our time in Oaxaca. It was simply too good for words. Vegans and vegetarians can order the memelas sin asiento (without lard). You’ll get a tortilla topped with her signature salsa, but her salsa is probably what she’s most renowned for. This is truly a can’t-miss addition to any foodie traveler’s Oaxaca itinerary.

Mercado del Abastos has a reputation for theft, but I didn’t have any issues, even with my large (read: expensive) camera slung across my body quite obviously. Still, it’s a good reminder to mind your belongings and stay aware of your surroundings. If you’d rather not wander the market alone, consider booking one of Oaxaca's many market and food tours.

After fueling yourself for your first day in Oaxaca, head to the Andador Turistico for a stroll along the pedestrian-only street. The walking lane stretches from the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán (Santo Domingo Church) to the Zócalo, lined with restaurants, art galleries, and shops. The Santo Domingo Church is Oaxaca’s most famous church, dating back to the 16th century and serving as the backdrop for numerous significant events throughout Mexican history. The church was built by Dominican friars over 200 years of construction. After its completion in the 18th century, the baroque building’s interiors are more lavish than one might assume, drenched in gold leafing and ornate altars. Today, it’s a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The church’s adjoining convent has been transformed into the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca (Cultural Center of Oaxaca), founded by a local artist and filled with pre-colonial artifacts spanning multiple floors. You could easily spend two hours reading every plaque detailing Oaxaca’s history. The museum has ticketed entry and you cannot buy tickets to the museum online. There was a queue every day we walked past the entrance, but it moved quickly on the day we visited. Entry is MX$90 per person, payable in cash.

I recommend walking to Mercado 20 de Noviembre, one of Oaxaca’s oldest markets, for lunch. Named after the date of the Mexican Revolution, this market hall is a neverending warren of vendor stalls, selling all varieties of Oaxacan cuisine. The most notable food for sale is mole, Oaxaca’s most famous dish. Mole is often described as a sauce, but that’s oversimplifying. More than a food, mole incorporates Indigenous traditions and techniques. Chefs and home cooks each have their own mole recipes. There are famous Oaxacan mole variations comprised of a careful balance of over 200 regional, native ingredients that are ground into a paste, fried, and then loosened with stock (usually chicken stock).

Being 100% transparent, it took me multiple tries to enjoy mole. Understanding the complexities of every mole; the nuances within every recipe, is a pathway to respecting the dish if not loving it. I recommend mole at Comedor Maria Alejandra. This puesto has been owned by the same family for over 80 years.

While you’re visiting Mercado 20 de Noviembre, be sure to walk through the Pasillo de Humo. Known to most as “Smoke Alley”, the narrow aisle of barbequed meats is a carnivore’s dream. It’s hard to miss, as the air is thick with meaty fumes and wafts of pork. Luke and I are vegetarian, so I can’t recommend anything here but walking through is definitely an “experience”. To eat, order at the vendor of your choosing and they will give you a numbered card. Sit down at a table (if you can find one) and order drinks (a requirement for all sitting guests). Your meat will be brought to your table, but you may have to order tortillas separately. Women selling tortillas in baskets will walk around looking for those without them. Make sure to bring cash to pay for everything!

Full up on Méxican eats, slowly walk to Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca (MACO). I visited the museum on my first trip to Oaxaca completely my mistake, and what a serendipitous moment that was. The museum spills across two floors, filling a repurposed colonial building with various collections of contemporary artwork. You can easily spend an hour here, depending on how moved by art you are. Unfortunately, when I returned with Luke, the museum was temporarily closed. Keep an eye on their website for updates.

You’re spoiled with food choices in Oaxaca, but I recommend finishing your first day with dinner at a streetside tlayuda stand. A tlayuda is a large, thin corn tortilla slathered with refried beans, meats (often chorizo or pulled pork), Oaxacan cheese, avocado, cabbage, and tomato. Cooked over charcoal, it is often called “Oaxacan pizza”. We went to Las Tlayudas de Mina y Bustamante, as recommended by our hotel concierge. The stand is located near Mercado 20 de Noviembre, on the corner of Aldama and C. de Carlos María Bustamante. The stand begins dishing up around 7:30 PM.

Though delicious, I recognize that street food isn’t for everyone. If you’d rather eat at a sit-down restaurant, I recommend Hierba Dulce, a locally-owned restaurant serving plant-based versions of traditional Oaxacan food. Every dish is made with garden-grown ingredients and served in stunning artisanal pottery. We made a booking in December

day 2: brunch at Yegole Cafè, Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, Jalatlaco, Museo de la Filatelia (MUFI), Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños (MUPO), + dinner at Levadora De Olla

Start your second day in Oaxaca with brunch at Yegole Café, a quaint and contemporary café with a menu steeped in delicious offerings.

From Yegole Café, it’s a short walk to the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca (Ethnobotanical Garden). Oaxaca’s gardens are a reflection of Mexico’s incredible biodiversity and the connection between it and the country’s Indigenous people. However, the only way to visit the gardens is on a tour. This is where things get a bit hairy.

English language tours are only available at 11 AM on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. There are limited tickets sold on these days and you cannot book them in advance (at least not that I could figure out). Your best chance at obtaining a ticket is to arrive at the garden gates a half hour before they open (10:30 AM). While that might sound excessive, I promise you will not be the only one in a queue that early. Admission costs MX$100 per person.

Our guide was exceptionally knowledgeable about the flora that fills the garden area, carefully leading us around and imparting horticultural facts to the large group. And it was a large group. Too large, in my opinion. Between the tour taking place in the middle of the day and having a group of mixed attention spans, I can’t say I enjoyed it. The guide was outstanding, and I learned a lot about Indigenous plants in México. I only wish I could have done it earlier in the day without 20+ people to contend with. Still, as it’s the only way to wander around the gardens, I would say it’s worth doing, albeit with tempered expectations.

Next, walk to Jalatlaco, one of Oaxaca’s most colorful neighborhoods. Jalatlaco’s cobblestone streets are sprinkled with colonial-style homes, art studios, and contemporary coffee shops. It’s the perfect place to shop for a take-home trinket, especially for a thoughtful, artsy memento. I highly recommend stopping by Once In Oaxaca, possibly my favorite shop in the neighborhood, for colorful art prints, postcards, and pins. Once In Oaxaca doubles as a café with alfresco seating at small tables out front. The coffee here is fantastic, but I must admit it was the shopping that lured me in.

Hungry for lunch? Make your way to Las Chilmoeras for chilaquiles, sandwiches, or delicious quesadillas (what I ordered).

On your way back to the city center, stop by the Museo de la Filatelia (MUFI), also known as the Museum of Stamps. You might argue that a stamp museum is hardly a must-see. But on this occasion, you’d be wrong. Luke and I strolled in initially as a way to escape the oppressive midday heat but ended up spending a good 40 minutes in this very niche museum. There are over 200,000 stamps, letters, and art pieces hidden away in pull-out shelving. I found the collection of stamps from around the world the most interesting. The museum is laid out over several rooms in a colonial house. It’s a bright, beautiful space that’s child-friendly.

It’s a short walk from MUFI to the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños (MUPO), your next stop on this itinerary. MUPO doesn’t house a permanent collection. Instead, it is an exhibition space promoting pieces from local artists on rotation. In other words, the works I saw during my visit may, and will likely, differ from those you see on your visit.

For dinner on day 2 in Oaxaca, make a reservation at Levadora de Olla. Located in Centro, Levadora de Olla uses ancestral cooking techniques and seasonal ingredients to curate a menu reflective of the region’s Indigenous cuisines. The restaurant aims to promote traditional foods and the ritual of coming together for a meal as a form of quiet protest against the rapid gentrification of Oaxaca. The open-air space that houses the restaurant feels like a quiet courtyard hidden from the city’s noise.

Day 3: day trip to Hierve El Agua, El Árbol del Tule, + Mitla

Spend day 3 on a day trip to Hierve El Agua, El Árbol del Tule, and the ancient city of Mitla. You can visit these sites concurrently by taking a tour or self-driving. Luke and I opted to book a tour to ensure we learned more about each of the places mentioned on today’s itinerary. Booking a tour includes your entry ticket to each site and transport. We shopped for a tour through the many companies available in town to find the best price and a package itinerary that suited our preferences.

The first stop of your day trip should be El Árbol del Tule (the Tule Tree), a behemoth Montezuma cypress that stands as the centerpiece of Santa María del Tule town. Renowned for its size and age, the tree is estimated to be over 1,400 years old with a trunk circumference of just under 140 feet. To visit the tree, there is an entry fee of MX$20 per person. Tickets are available at a small kiosk just outside the church grounds that house it.

Next, stop in Mitla to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site, once home to an ancient city. Today, the sprawling site is a complex of pre-colonial ruins from the Zapotec civilization consisting of ceremonial platforms and tombs adorned with impressive stone mosaics. The geometric designs are entirely unique to Mitla.

Hierve El Agua waterfall is roughly a 3-hour drive from Oaxaca, and while it’s a sight worth seeing, I would visit with tempered expectations. It’s not exactly a waterfall. Technically speaking, it’s a petrified waterfall. For thousands of years, mineral-rich water trickled down the cliffside, fed by a hot spring. Eventually, the mineral deposits formed a “salt waterfall” or “petrified waterfall”. Marvel at the petrified waterfalls and dip in the natural mineral pools.

The final part of our tour took us to a local mezcaleria, owned by the same family for generations. After being guided around the property by the 12-year-old son of the owner, we were treated to over 15 shot glasses of mezcal, meant to be sipped slowly and not shot back in a single guzzle. It was a nice ending to a day of sightseeing. Independent drivers, please be responsible and skip visiting a mezcal distillery on the way back to the city. Instead, try one of the mezcal tastings that are walkable within the city (listed below).

Day 4: half-day trip to Mont Albán + mezcal tasting

With only 4 days in Oaxaca, I would combine days 4 and 5 of this itinerary. Starting with brunch at Boulenc then immediately going to Mont Albán for a half-day. In the later afternoon, I would walk around West Oaxaca, making sure to stop in the Organic Market. This cuts out the cooking class, but it’s a lot to squeeze into one day. Possibly, but crammed. If you have a full five days in Oaxaca, I would proceed with the itinerary as detailed.

No trip to Oaxaca would be complete without a trip to Mont Albán. The remnant of an ancient Mesoamerican civilization, Mont Albán is a UNESCO World Heritage Site less than 30 minutes from Oaxaca city center. The ruin complex is spattered with tombs and pyramids sitting atop a hill.

Getting to Mont Albán is relatively straightforward. Like Mitla, various half-day tours include transport and a guided tour of the ruins. You can also visit independently with a rental car, taxi, or shuttle bus. Most travelers visit in the morning, including tour groups. We, however, visited independently in the afternoon, and, while I’m not sure if it was more or less crowded, it was definitely hotter. The extreme heat is something to prepare properly for, both in terms of hydration and sun protection.

Visiting Mont Albán is only a half-day adventure, so I recommend you spend the evening mezcal tasting. You may have heard of mezcal and tequila, but the two are not the same. In the simplest terms: all tequila is mezcal but not all mezcal is tequila. Whether you have an astute palette or not, after multiple sips of mezcal, you’ll slowly learn to appreciate the different flavor profiles that result from different agave and distillery methods.

There are too many mezcal-tasting experiences and mezcalerias (mezcal distilleries) to choose from, but some of the most highly rated are:

day 5: breakfast at Boulenc Pan Artesano, handicraft shopping, + cooking class

The final day of your Oaxaca itinerary Start your final day in Oaxaca with brunch at Boulenc Pan Artesano. Tucked away behind a velvet curtain, Boulenc is an open-air space that lets Oaxaca’s natural light flood across its wooden tables. Everything about Boulenc is outstanding, from the service to the French toast. The barista-style coffee here is as good as any I’ve had in the best cafés in the world.

After breakfast, stroll (20 minutes) West for locally produced souvenirs. This is one of my favorite areas of Oaxaca, brimming with cafés, handicrafts, and hidden markets. Cooperitiva 1050° is a haven for ceramics lovers, like me. The small studio is filled with beautiful handmade pottery. It’s also located around the corner from El Volador, one of the best cafés in Oaxaca.

By day five of your Oaxaca itinerary, you’ll better understand the significant role of food in the culture here. And so, I can think of no better way to finish your five days in Oaxaca than with a cooking class. I love taking cooking classes when I travel. Learning about food traditions and local cooking techniques is an immersive travel experience I always enjoy.

Some highly-rated cooking classes in Oaxaca include:

Oaxacan Vegetarian Cooking Class
Traditional Oaxacan Cooking Class with Market Visit

More than 5 days in Oaxaca ↴

If you have more than five days in Oaxaca, I recommend taking the ADO bus to Puerto Escondido to enjoy the beach. The bus takes approximately three hours from Oaxaca city center to Puerto Escondido, making it more than a day trip. I recommend booking accommodation and spending 2-3 days along the coast. You can also explore nearby Mazunte or Huatulco.